Swooning Over São Lourenço do Barrocal in Portugal
The Property: São Lourenço Barrocal
I recently had the opportunity to stay in the Alentejo region of Portugal, home to the estate of São Lourenço Barrocal, my new favorite spot in Portugal.
At the heart of Alentejo is the hill, an ancient small farming village that has been lovingly reimagined as a luxury hotel, surrounded by ancient oaks, olive groves, vineyards, and even wild horses.
I expected my stay to be special, but my experience actually far exceeded my expectations. It's the type of accommodation that is an experience rather than just a place to rest your head at night. I recommend no less than 3 nights to truly experience it!
The Story
The São Lourenço estate has been with the owning family for over 200 years, and now sits in the hands of 8th generation owner, José António Uva. Jose spent much of his childhood here and was determined to bring it back to life in a way that respected its unique history and roots. It took 14 years to fully restore and evolve the property into the special one-of-a-kind place it has become.
The Arrival Experience
It's about a 2-hour drive from Lisbon, half of which we had driven the night before. The second half, which we did the following day, from Evora to the property was beautiful! We drove through farmland, vineyards, and tiny towns - it felt like we were truly getting off the beaten path.
Once we met turn off to the tree-lined cobblestone drive to the property, I knew that we were in for a treat. Top it off with warm, southern Europe sunshine, and it felt like one of the most fun travel days I have had in a long time.
On arrival, we were greeted by Paulo who whisked us to the reception in his golf cart where we were welcomed with a glass of the property's wine and a cool towel (even Leo my 11-month-old old received a cool towel).
We learned about the special activities going on (more on this later) and were connected with the Concierge by WhatsApp to be completely at our disposal.
Almost immediately, I felt an overall sense of relaxedness about the property, the kind that makes you feel at home and isn't always easy to come by, especially when traveling with a baby.
Also, I'll add that it was also the type of relaxed environment that makes socializing with the other guests feel very easy and natural. Most of the other guests who we met were either British, American, or Portuguese. We love meeting other people while we are traveling and made fast friends here. I even met another Abbie from the South (USA) who lives in England.
The Rooms
The rustic rooms and cottages are the epitome of understated luxury. Every architecture detail was planned to allow you discover the farm and its perks. You’ll find that heritage meets natural materials and quality design and that is felt throughout all the guest rooms and cottages, across the furniture (including vintage and contemporary pieces), fabrics, tiny details, and thoughtful touches.
We stayed in a farm room which is a lower category yet still 645 sq ft, also with a terrace between 215-430 sq ft. This room was perfect for us, but there are several options including two and three-bedroom cottages that even boast separate floors which makes for a private and spacious stay even amongst friends or family.
On-Property
There are so many things to do on-property, that you probably won’t want to leave!
Private stargazing: The estate is located within Alqueva’s Dark Sky Reserve, the world’s first “Starlight Tourism Destination.”
Mountain Biking: The best way to discover the vast estate (that's 1900 acres)
Beekeeping: Get suited up and accompany our beekeeping team on a journey through the estate's honey cycle.
Horse riding: The property is a horse lover's dream!
Picnic & wine tasting in the property's vineyards
Archaeological visit with a local archaeologist: All over the estate you'll find towering stone liths or menhirs, some 7,000 years old
Enjoy the pool! As soon as you sit down at the pool, you're welcomed with a cold towel, cold water and rosemary spray.
Find the secret hammocks (like Chris pictured!)
These are just to name a few! We can also make recommendations customized specifically to you and your interests.
Off-Property
Just 10-minutes away from the property, you can visit Monsaraz, a fortified hilltop castle with stunning lake views. Before I arrived at the property Monsaraz wasn't on my radar, but it should have been - it's truly a hidden gem! Its white-washed walls reminded me of Santorini (without the crowds), but it was also distinctively Portuguese. A visit is an absolute must including lunch at tiny, O Gaspacho, with the most delightful owner and simple yet, perfect dishes.
More off-property activities include:
Pottery class with a local potter,
A visit to nearby Evora, one of Portugal's most beautifully preserved medieval towns, with a local guide, and
Lake activities at nearby Alqueva Lake, where water sports and boating are on offer year-round
For The Kids
While we met many couples during our stay, there were also plenty of families with small children, like us!. The property is absolutely perfect for young children and fully equipped with chic farm cribs (or cots as they refer to them in the UK and Europe) and high chairs. If you wish, you can even organize babysitting services.
The best part for kids might be the 'working farm' aspect of the property, including the daily morning feeding of the animals (pictured). There are also treasure hunts and even a donkey cart ride. Our little one was a bit too young to get too involved, but he did (with the help of Dad) feed the resident donkey, Jeronimo.
There is also a very cute kids’ area where they can get away for some indoor playtime if needed.
Dining
Dining was an absolute highlight! It will be no surprise that every month, they use the best seasonal produce including ingredients that are sourced from their very own organic vegetable garden and from other small producers.
It's always best to make reservations in advance. I recommend:
A fireside dinner in the main restaurant,
Lunch at the pool bar, and
Depending on the time of year, the seasonal restaurant, aka a big delicious outdoor BBQ. If you like shrimp, you MUST order the tiger shrimp (pictured).
Best Time To Visit
In the spring, the estate blooms with wild flowers, and is the perfect time for outdoor activities; experience the harvest in fall, sipping the special estate organic wines; and lastly, winter is cozy and romantic – spend your time by the fire reading and eating Portuguese fare.
Your Abbay’s Escapes Amenities
When we work together, I can guarantee these special perks at São Lourenço Barrocal, which elevate every aspect of your stay:
Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability,
Daily Farm to table breakfast for up to two guests (already included in the hotel's rates),
Choice of a $100 USD Spa treatment credit, per booking, once during your stay OR $100 USD horseback riding credit, per booking, once during your stay, and
Early Check-In / Late Check-Out, subject to availability.
A Final Word
São Lourenço Barrocal is such a special escape, with its serene, natural surroundings, farm-to-table food experiences, and plentiful on-property experiences. The additional excursions and activities are well-curated and more aligned with local culture than other more touristed regions of Portugal.
For those seeking a sense of place and a setting where you’re welcomed as a dear friend would be, I would certainly recommend São Lourenço Barrocal. If you’d like more information about my time there or anything else regarding the area, please reach out. I’d be more than happy to chat!
Abbay's Escapes is a boutique travel advisory company. As an independent affiliate of Brownell Travel (the oldest travel agency in the USA), we have preferred relationships with the industry's best hotels, resorts, and tour operators across the globe. This means expert intel, VIP status, extra perks, and upgrades for you, our client.